Asuncion, Paraguay 🇵🇾 Gringo's Guide
After some time in Asuncion, I’ve come to adore the eccentric charm of the understated Paraguayan capital...
“But why would you want to live in Paraguay? Us Paraguayans, we’re all trying to get out!”
Locals ask me this all the time.
But after some time in Asuncion, I’ve come to adore the eccentric charm of the understated Paraguayan capital, a destination that’s often overlooked by even the most seasoned LatAm degen…errr, I mean travelers.
Assuming you’ve never been, you’re likely wondering:
Is Asuncion, Paraguay worth visiting — outside of the tax benefits?
Let’s find out…
Asuncion, Paraguay 🇵🇾
Population:
3,452,000 in the metro area
Weather:
For most of the year, the weather in Asuncion is agreeable.
Expect a temperature range of about 65-90°F. Asuncion doesn’t have a rainy season – it rains periodically throughout the year – so no need to worry about that.
HOWEVER…
The summer months — December to March here in the southern hemisphere — get oppressively hot. We’re talking 100°F or more. Humid, too.
It’s not a deal breaker. Crank up the AC in your hotel or apartment and you’ll be alright, fren. But if you’re really not a fan of the heat, steer clear of Asuncion in December, January and February.
Weather wise, the best months to visit in my opinion would be March-May.
Temperatures are starting to cool down, but it’s still pleasant and mainly sunny. Winter here (late June to late September) is fine as well, but it can get somewhat cold: around 57°F or less…which may not be what you’re looking for in your South American vacation.
Why Visit Asuncion, Paraguay?
Visiting a chronically under-visited city as a foreigner does come with certain perks.
The first thing you’re likely to notice about Asuncion — and Paraguay in general — is how damn friendly the Paraguayan people are!
And it doesn’t come off as inauthentic, i.e., they’re ‘friendly’ as they try to charge you triple the price on your bar tab or taxi fare.
Rather, they’re legitimately curious to know about you, your country and your opinion of Paraguay and its people.
I’ve been all around Latin America, and I’d go as far as to say that Paraguayans may be the friendliest folks in the entire region. They do their best to make you feel welcomed and comfortable.
This same sentiment extends to dating.
As a foreigner in a Latin American city that’s yet to be completely invaded, you’ll get a lot of positive attention from Paraguayan women.
So, yes, in case you were wondering, your gringo status still carries some clout here. Less than in the past, however.l
Moving forward! We’ll talk more about dating later.
Another good reason to visit Asuncion is something you may not have expected…
The food!
The quality and selection of meat and produce in Paraguay is superb and reasonably priced. A good ol’ Sunday barbeque with enough high-quality meat to feed you and four amigos will only set you back about $40 USD.
In terms of the price/quality ratio for food, Paraguay is one of the best deals in South America.
Which leads us nicely into another good reason for visiting:
The low cost of living!
Aside from apartment rentals — we’ll talk more about this in the “cost of living section — Asuncion is a cheap destination by Latin American standards. The base rate for a taxi is a mere $1.15 USD. In fact, any taxi trip you take within the Asuncion metropolitan area, no matter the distance, will be less than $10 USD. Restaurants, groceries, gyms, and nightlife are also a bargain.
In short, with $2,000/month here, you’re living well.
How to Get to Asuncion
This is a downside of Asuncion…
It’s just not that easy to get to!
There are only 11 cities in the world that have direct flights to Asuncion.
Here they are:
So, unless you’re already in the region or happen to be chilling in Madrid, you’re looking at least one layover.
Not a huge deal. For US-based readers, you’ll see layover options for Bogota, Panama, or Lima, depending on your origin city.
I’d opt for Panama if you’re able, as it’s the most organized and pleasant airport of the three.
On the off chance you’re entering from Brazil and want to save a bit of cash on a flight, the bus from Ciudad del Este to Asuncion is a fine option. It’s comfortable (not a chicken-bus), affordable and the highway is smooth going.
Best Neighborhoods
Among both locals and tourists, there is little debate regarding Asuncion’s best neighborhood.
The answer?
Villa Morra…or anything that lies adjacent to it.
Basically, if you stay anywhere within the confines of the above map, you’re all good.
All the better if you’re within walking-distance of those friendly pink circles I’ve added around the following establishments:
El Café de Aca
Shopping del Sol
Paseo la Galeria
Around here is where you’ll find the best concentration of restaurants, bars, gyms, malls, etc.
It’s also one of the safest barrios in the city.
Skip the guesswork and stay in Villa Morra or close to it.
Where to Stay in Asuncion?
Let’s get more specific…
In my opinion, the best hotel to stay in while visiting Asuncion is…
Five Hotel and Residencies
It lies neatly within the above map and, apart from having exquisite rooms and top-notch logistics, also has a tasteful rooftop bar that I’ve had the pleasure of visiting a handful of times…pictured above.
Rooms here will cost you about $60 USD a night, give or take. It’s good value for money.
Looking for a more budget option?
Here’s where things get tricky in Asuncion.
For any half-decent Airbnb, you’re looking at about $1000/month these days, which is decidedly more expensive than in other Latin American destinations.
For example…
This Airbnb apartment in one of the city’s best locations is a little over $1000 bucks a month:
I mean, it’s nice and all...but, as you can see, nothing too special.
Airbnb prices here are on the high-end. Why? Who knows. Perhaps a lack of supply.
Long story short, even if you’re looking for a longer-term rental — 1 month or more — don’t immediately default to Airbnb! Check out the various hotels in the area as well.
You might find you’ll pay only slightly more for a much better experience.
Cost of Living
Airbnb Apartment in Best Area: $500-2000 USD a month
Hotel in Best Area: $1,500-2,800 USD a month
Maid: $400-600
Grocery Store: $300-600
Eating Out / Delivery: $300-600
Gym: $30-70
BJJ / MMA: $35-70
Partying / Dating / Social: $300-600 USD
Cell Data: $15
Your biggest expense in Asuncion is going to be your short or medium-term rental.
The good news?
After that, everything is cheap. Taxis, groceries, restaurants, gyms, food delivery and nightlife won’t break the bank.
I would set your budget at a minimum of $2000/month — unless budget is of primary concern.
Is Asuncion Safe?
Now, this is a contentious issue.
As is the case in every Latin American country, if you ask a local, they will not hesitate to tell you how horrifically dangerous their city is.
But, my friends, it’s all relative.
By Latin American standards, I would say:
Yes, Asuncion is safe.
From a statistical standpoint, it’s on the lower end of homicide rates in Latin America.
And from a colloquial standpoint, aside from a few rare occasions, I’ve never felt uneasy here, even while walking after sundown.
And full disclosure: I don’t live in the best area of the city ;(
I can’t say the same about my time in: Bogota, Mexico City, Quito, Lima, etc.
That said, there is one type of crime you do have to be vigilant about here in the capital.
The infamous motochorros.
These are guys on motorcycles who pull up next to you while you’re walking and promptly relieve you of your valuables.
These delinquents usually operate after nightfall.
This crime is opportunistic in nature, so the best way to avoid it is to never use your cell phone while in the street, whether it be from walking from point A to point B, or while waiting for a taxi.
Also, don’t walk around after dark with AirPods on or any other kind of expensive headphones — and try to avoid sporting a big ol’ backpack that looks as though it could contain a laptop.
Still, this type of crime remains relatively uncommon in the affluent areas of the city — which we’ve covered and is where you’ll want to stay. So, don’t worry too much about safety here.
