Guatemala City 🇬🇹 Gringo's Guide
Everything you MUST know about the Guatemalan capital...
If you have any opinion at all about Guatemala City, it probably isn’t a positive one.
This is not a place about to appear on Condé Nast Traveler’s top destinations list anytime soon.
In fact, the only “list” Guatemala City is likely to be on at all is that of the World’s Most Dangerous Cities. This year Guatemala City ranked as the 58th most dangerous city in the world. Not as bad as St. Louis mind you, but still worse than Guadalajara, Mexico.
Who’s foolish enough to step foot in such a seemingly irredeemable, insignificant, threatening city, you ask?
Well, allow me to introduce myself…
I’ve visited the Guatemalan capital not once…but twice! And I’m here to tell you exactly what to expect down here in Central America’s largest metropolis.
***This is a guest post.
Guatemala City, Guatemala 🇬🇹
Population:
3,036,000 in the metro area
Weather:
One good thing we can say about Guatemala City – or Guate as it’s known colloquially – is that it’s blessed with an agreeable climate.
The Guatemalan capital never gets too hot or too cold. In fact, it’s one of many Latin American cities known as La Tierra de la Eterna Primavera or “The Land of Eternal Spring.”
The only thing to be vigilant about is the rainy season, which runs from May to November.
The best time to visit Guatemala City is from December to April.
You’ll get cozy daily temperatures around 69 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) without much precipitation.
Like Mexico City, Guatemala City is prone to earthquakes. This is what the earthquake alarm system in Guatemala City sounds like. If you hear this alarm, don’t ignore it! Earthquakes are serious business in this part of the world, and I wouldn’t exactly trust Guatemalan structural integrity.
And if the Guatemalan capital didn’t have it hard enough already simply by being, well, the capital of Guatemala, it’s also got a volcano to worry about! The aptly named “Fuego” volcano is indeed active. In 2018, it erupted and killed 25 people.
Why Visit Guatemala City?
If I had a nickel each time somebody asked me this prior to my two trips here, I’d probably be holding more than the Guatemalan minimum wage!
Jokes aside, there are some valid reasons to visit this Central American capital.
Most arrive to Guatemala City as a transit point before heading off to more peaceful Guatemalan pastures such as Antigua or Lake Atitlan. This probably accounts for 95% of tourists who ever set foot in Guatemala City. I.e., they stay 24 hours maximum before getting the hell out!
Then there are the curious and misguided – such as me – who hang around Guatemala City longer to see what’s going on.
If you decide to do the same, you’ll be happy to know that there are in fact a lot of things to do here. Keep in mind this is not exactly a small city. It’s got over three million people, making it the biggest Central American city by quite a large margin.
As such, it’s got a handful of engaging museums, elegant restaurants, and a surprisingly robust nightlife scene to keep a gentleman active and entertained.
Another reason to visit Guatemala is the local cuisine! Although I wouldn’t deem Guatemala a must-visit country in terms of its culinary offerings, the food is acceptable here.
Those familiar with Central America know that food is not exactly a strong suit in these nations, but here in Guatemala City it’s OK. Unsurprisingly, it’s like Mexican cuisine but it’s got its local creations as well, such as Pepian or Kak Ik, which are both worth trying.
Guatemala City also gives you generous access to both bustling city life and scenic nature. For such a small country, Guatemala punches above its weight when it comes to nature. And staying in Guatemala City means you’re never too far away from it. You can relax in a charming colonial city, hike a volcano, enjoy stunning lakeside views, indulge in a coffee tour or, hell, even surf on Guatemala’s Pacific Coast!
Last but most certainly not least, you should visit Guatemala City because the people are remarkably friendly. After finding locals in Southern Mexico somewhat aloof and unwelcoming, I had my doubts about how locals in Guatemala City might receive me. I was pleased to find that they were an accepting, curious and cheerful people.
That said, you do have to watch out for scams. Guatemalans tried to rip me off more than most Latin Americans, even at upscale establishments. Knowing Spanish helps, but it’s not enough. You must be on your toes here.
How to Get to Guatemala City
Another point in Guatemala City’s favor is that it’s an easy city to access.
If you’re in the United States, here are just a few of the cities offering direct flights:
Miami
Houston
LA
Chicago
Washington DC
Atlanta
Check all direct routes here: Flights From.
You can also get to Guatemala City direct from Mexico City, Cancun, Panama City or Bogota.
Euro bros will be pleased to know that Madrid offers direct flights to the Guatemalan capital!
If you’re doing an overland trip through Mexico, you can get a shuttle bus from San Cristobal de las Casas for about $50 or so.
Best Neighborhoods
Guatemala City is a dangerous city. You don’t want to find yourself in the wrong neighborhood! Fortunately, the layout of the city is straightforward. It’s conveniently set up by zones, each with their own reputation for affluence and safety.
Where should you stay?
Stay in Zona 10.
Don’t get adventurous. It’s best to simply stay in Zona 10. It’s one of the city’s safest and richest areas and its chalked full of everything you need: restaurants, bars, malls, gyms, cafes, chicas, etc.
The other option on the map (top arrow) is Zona 4. This is the city’s “hip” neighborhood, with a handful of eclectic bars, restaurants, and cafes. You could also stay in this zone. Zona 10 is preferable, as it has better security and more to offer.
But, yes, Zona 4 is a viable alternative.
Some travelers may be tempted to stay right downtown to be in the thick of it all. I of all people understand the sentiment, however, I strongly advise against it in this particular city.
While Guatemala City’s centro is safe enough during the day (marginally…), it’s not a place you want to be kicking around at night, even if you’re traveling by Uber.
Again, it’s best to stay and play in Zona 10.
Where to Stay in Guatemala City?
Let’s peak at some of your Zona 10 lodging options, shall we?
But first, know this!
Airbnb options aren’t great in this city. Nearly every tourist who comes to Guate does so for business and therefore stays in a hotel. Airbnb just isn’t a huge industry ‘round these parts so your choices are limited.
That said, you still have some options:
These represent your best-value options for Airbnb in Guatemala City. You can pay more and get a little more or pay a little less and get a lot less.
Around $1,200-1,600/month for an Airbnb is the sweet spot for value. That may sound expensive because, well, it’s Guatemala and all.
But this country is not cheap!
More on that in the next section.
As far as hotels go, here is my recommendation:
Bad hotels are miserable enough in first world countries. You really don’t want to end up in a bad one in Guatemala City, so it’s worth shelling out a few more bucks for something trustworthy.
Guatemala’s Real Continental will run you an arguably steep price of $150+/night depending on your dates and room, but it’ll provide you with the best logistics you could ask for and the peace of mind that you won’t be robbed silly the moment you decide to leave your room.
…and you’ll get a nice rooftop pool!
Cost of Living
Guatemala City is going to feel waaaaaay more expensive that it has any right to be. I don’t know precisely why this is or how locals can possibly cope but, in any case, that’s the situation we’re looking at.
This city does not offer good value for money.
Airbnb Apartment in Best Area: $1000-2000 USD a month
Hotel in Best Area: $3000 USD a month
Maid: $300-500
Grocery Store: $500-800
Eating Out / Delivery: $400-600
Gym: $50+
BJJ / MMA: $60+
Partying / Dating / Social: $600-800 USD
Cell Data: $20
Its high cost of living was by far the most surprising thing about Guatemala City. I assumed that being significantly poorer than most Latin American nations, Guatemala would come at a deal.
Not the case!
You’ll spend just as much cash in Guatemala City – probably more – as you would in Mexico City, Bogota, or Quito. Wayyyy more than Quito!
From Ubers to grocery stores to bars to gyms, everything here feels oddly overpriced. You will contemplate this surreal situation as you regard the abject poverty and collapsing infrastructure that surrounds you.
Alas, not everything in this world makes sense.
Let’s assume you snag one of those above Airbnbs for about $1000/month. I’d want at least $1700 more in spending money in addition to that.
This might sound high, but bars and half-decent restaurants are pricey here. Also, consider that you’ll probably indulge a bit more in Ubers and food delivery given that this is a dangerous and not particularly walkable city.
Long story short?
I’d suggest around $2,500-4,000 for a month in Guatemala City.
Is Guatemala City Safe?
The answer to this question is a resounding NO.
No. Guatemala City is not safe.
It’s not safe statistically, nor does it feel safe. Aside from a few areas, you don’t entirely feel at ease here as a foreigner. Zona 10 and Zona 4 are fine, as are Zonas 14, 15, and 16.
Apart from that? There’s a lot of eyes on you.
As I mentioned before, strolling downtown during late morning/early afternoon only felt marginally safe once you stray a block or two away from the plaza and the shops. Even at these hours there was a bit of tension in the air. And centro is far from Guatemala City’s worst neighborhood.
If you’re taller than about 5’6 in this city you’re going to stand out in a big way. If you’re white and significantly taller than 5’6, multiply that statement!
Guatemala City does have a small but visible Asian population, so if you’re Asian, I’m inclined to say you won’t stand out as much. Its black population is existent but tiny (the Garifuna people), so black people are going to stand out here as well.
Robberies, violent or otherwise, are depressingly common here. You’ll see armed guards not only outside banks, but also outside businesses that shouldn’t need armed guards, such as pharmacies.
After nightfall, no one walks the streets. My most recent time in Guatemala City, a friend and I traveled by foot from one bar to another. The distance couldn’t have been more than two blocks, but it felt uneasy, even at that short distance in a good neighborhood.
It’s simply not something most folks do here at night.
With all that out of the way, if you stay in a good neighborhood, dress down and refrain from walking anywhere during the evening, I’m confident you could put in 6-months here without any incidents.
Is this an ideal way to live? Of course not!
However, to err on the side of caution, it’s what I’d recommend.
Dating in Guatemala City
While I’ve never had a Guatemalan girlfriend in Guatemala City or otherwise, I have spent enough time here to notice a few curious things related to dating and women in Guatemala City.
First thing’s first.
The women here are not good-looking.
No sense being politically correct about it.
Guatemalan women, overall, are not turning many heads.
In Guatemala City, the attractiveness of women is heavily correlated to social class. Of course, this is true of any city in the world, but here it’s really true.
In other words, the only places where you might see sexy Guatemaltecas will be in the rich barrios, mainly in affluent shopping malls, higher-end restaurants, and stylish bars.
That’s the only place I saw them, at least.
The silver lining is this:
It is exceptionally easy to meet women here.
I’ll give you a few anecdotes.
Last time I was in the city, a friend and I arrived at a somewhat fancier bar called Astro Bar. Being my autistic self, I wasn’t approaching any women. We were simply minding our own business.
Out of nowhere, a rather decent-looking girl approaches my pal and says “OMG YOU LOOK LIKE THE GUY FROM COLDPLAY” with stars in her eyes. Of course, a conversation ensues.
Not long after that, we were approached by a different gal who invited us to her table of friends for a few drinks and a chat.
Point is, it was rather remarkable to see girls putting in an effort like this, even if they were simply being friendly and nothing more. It’s not something that happens in every Latin American city.
I also managed to bring a girl back home from a rather sketchy nightclub…on a Sunday.
I tell you this not to brag, but rather to demonstrate to you that, as a foreigner in this city, I truly got the sense you could do tremendously well with women if you’ve got some Spanish on you and put in even an ounce of effort.
But, again, your main hurdle will be finding enough women you’re actually attracted to!
Nightlife in Guatemala City
While I’m no certified expert in Guatemala City nightlife, I did get stuck into it enough to give you a few recommendations.
On 2 Avenida between 14 calle and 15 calle is where you’ll find Zona 10’s “nightlife zone” so to speak, which is only about half a dozen bars clustered together. Good news is, if you stay in the Real Continental hotel that I recommended, you’ll be about 20 seconds away from these bars!
The most responsible, sound recommendation is simply to stick to this area and bar hop to wherever has the best crowd.
Nonetheless, here are some more specific options.
Astro Bar – this is the bar I mention in the dating section. An ideal place to get the night started. A more upper-end joint with a tasteful ambience and friendly crowd of locals.
Bajo Fondo Funk – dive bar style, live music-type place. Honest staff: they didn’t try to rip us off. Also, if there are any foreigners in Guatemala City, this is a place they’ll be based on what I observed. Use this information either to avoid this place or to go, depending on if you want to hang with foreigners or not while here.
Karma Night Life – this is one of the bars in the bar zone I recommended on 2 Avenida. It’s fine but, again, just go with whichever place is most popular around there.
Red Lion Pub – A British pub in Guatemala City! Like Bajo Fondo Funk, this would be a place to find fellow foreigners.
4 Grados Norte – This is the strip of bars/restaurants in Zona 4. It’s also a fine option for nightlife.
An important thing to note!
By law, bars in Guatemala City shut early. Like, 1 or 2 am…
Of course, the party doesn’t stop. There are after-hours places. A go-to after-hours place used to be a somewhat sketchy spot called Metro, but it appears to have shut down post-covid.
My advice is to get on Instagram and ask a local girl where the after-hours spots are — they’ll know.
BJJ / MMA in Guatemala City
Gracie Barra Pradera – right on the border of Zona 10.
Cool Tings’ to Do
Some activities here in Guate will require you to go a bit outside of the city.
That said, I’ll recommend some worthwhile things to do within the city limits as well.
El Mirador: If you want the best possible views of the city, it’s here (simply Google “El Mirador Guatemala City”). Only go during the day.
Plaza Berlin: Another viewpoint. It’s close to Zona 10, so makes for an easy trip.
Mercado Central: A decidedly impressive market, even by Latin American standards. An ideal place to pick up a souvenir and to try authentic Guatemalan food.
Mercado San Jose: If Mercado Central feels too touristy for you and you want to go full Guatemalteco style, I recommend Mercado San Jose.
Plaza Cayala: An affluent, planned city within the Guatemala City limits with its own shopping mall, church, restaurants, park, etc. Sort of like if you turned a gated community into a whole town. It’s a rather interesting initiative from a sociological perspective. Check out this video to learn more.
Santa Teresita Hot Springs: A pleasant hotel/hot springs not too far outside of the city. A relaxing way to spend an afternoon.
Centro Historico: Structured like most other Latin American capitals: A plaza, a church, and the national palace. Surrounding streets filled with shops and restaurants. Dedicate a few hours to strolling the historic center, it’s worth a look.
Museums: Guatemala City has an impressive number of museums, many dedicated to its rich Mayan history. I sincerely regret not visiting many while I was here. I’ve since heard they’re well worth checking out. Museo Popol Vuh is among the most famous museums here, dedicated to Mayan art. It’s in Zona 10.
Antigua: Guatemala’s colonial jewel of a city. As beautiful as it is ravished and overrun by tourists…but it’s still definitely worth seeing. It’s only 25 miles from Guatemala City.
Lake Atitlan: A lovely lake about 75 miles from Guatemala City and one of Guatemala’s most visited tourist attractions.
Mayan Ruins: Tikal is the most famous, but there are several other ruins here. Iximche is one that is conveniently located between Guatemala City and Lake Atitlan.
Do You Need to Speak Spanish in Guatemala City?
I recall being shocked at how many people in Guatemala City spoke at least some English.
In retrospect this isn’t all that surprising considering that quite a few Guatemalan men over the age of about 20 have spent time in the USA before being…well, sent back.
Still, we’re not talking huge numbers of English speakers. Just more than you might assume.
As always, you should come equipped with some Spanish. If for no other reason, it’ll help shield you against getting scammed/overcharged at every turn which, again, is tragically common here.
P.S: This is how to actually learn Spanish…
Recommended Length of Stay
1 week to 3 months.
If we’re strictly talking Guatemala City, one week is probably enough to see the sights.
But while you’re here, you’ll probably want to hit up Antigua, Lake Atitlan and a few ruins as well. With that in mind, I’m going to suggest two weeks as a sweet spot. This will also grant you two weekends to check out the nightlife since there’s not much action to be had in that respect during the week.
It’s a funny thing. For all its faults, during my second trip to the Guatemalan capital I found myself thinking “you know, a tasteful apartment in Zona 10, a few gals, becoming a regular at a couple cafes, bars and restaurants, all split up by nature trips to the countryside…life wouldn’t be so bad here.”
Indeed, I do think a man could do a longer-term stint in Guatemala City and enjoy himself, but it’s not for the faint of heart.
Other Notes…
Hot Dogs are a strangely popular food option here.
Refaccion is the word for “snack.” So, if you see a stall with the word Refacciones, it means they sell food. Since there isn’t all that much street food here, you’ll see these stands mostly in markets.
The Guatemalan rum called Ron Zacapa is sublime. Top notch, for real. Don’t leave without trying it.
Apart from the country of Myanmar, Guatemala is the only other producer of jade.
Natives of Guatemala City are also known as Chapines, which is a type of shoe. The history regarding why is too tedious to get into here. However, I do not recommend calling Guatemalans this, as it may be taken poorly coming from a foreigner.
Guatemala is the youngest country in Latin America – almost half of its population is under the age of 19.
There’s a saint in Guatemala called Maximon. Rumor has it that when the village men go off to work, he bangs all their wives!
The Central American myth of the cadejo – a dog-shaped creature that appears at night – is present in Guatemalan lore. The black cadejo is evil and the white one is good. Just in case you needed yet another thing to worry about at night in Guatemala City…
Guatemala City 🇬🇹 Overall
My first thought after spending time in the Guatemalan capital was this:
“Well, it’s not great…but it’s nowhere near as bad as I imagined.”
Not particularly reassuring, I know.
The main problem with Guatemala City is simply that it offers an atrocious value proposition when compared to other Latin American cities.
You’re essentially getting a crime-ridden, poverty-stricken city with questionable infrastructure and ugly women at a higher cost of living than larger, safer cities with better infrastructure and desirable women.
A tough sell if there ever was one!
HOWEVER…
If avoiding other gringos is high on your priority list
If you want a significant advantage in dating
If you are a nature-enjoyer
If you don’t mind living a somewhat low-key lifestyle
If you are more than just a little bit insane
You just might be able to make Guatemala City work, friend.…just don’t blame me if you hate it!
